Month: October 2021

Well, we had a great day here in the Bernese Oberland!  First of all its a great day to be an American – Fourth of July.

Perfect weather for a game with the St. Gallen Bears at the Lachenstadion in Thun.  Initially we have some problems, but then we adjust to the pace of the game and gain control.

Our offense is humming along and we play well throughout the game.  Defensively we are able to control the visitors and we come away with a convincing 28-3 win to put our record at 3-2.

The stadium played the US National anthem in honor of the many US citizens who are part of the community and also the Thun Tigers.  That was pretty thoughtful and gracious of our host nation – I was certainly touched.

Then a great treat as we ll go to the Antulovitch house in the mountains where he and his wife Marianna run a bed and breakfast (Haus Schönegg) .  It is in an absolutely stunning area and this place is simply amazing.

A truly amazing family – Brad and Marianna have five children … three daughters and two sons.  I am not completely sure about this part of the story…. but I will try to get it right.

Bradley is from Trenton, Michigan – transplanted to California.  A Pastor, he then ended up in Russia – then to Jerusalem where he met Marianna (again not

sure about the timeline).  So, his children have all been born overseas.

His travels then led to Switzerland where he continues to be the international director for the  “For Zion’s Sake Ministry.”

He is a fantastic man – and he and Marianna have truly raised an awesome family.  Along the way they ended up running this beautiful Bed and Breakfast in Kiental, Switzerland in the canton of Bern.

Well, anyway we are invited to a Fourth of July party … it was outstanding.  Most of the coaches and their families were all there for a great hamburger feast served up by Bradley.  Everything was decked out in Red White and Blue.  What a fantastic day.

The people you meet throughout my (mid)adventures in football are truly amazing … just love it.  Such nice people and how they have welcome me!

Football has truly allowed me to explore the world and meet so many great people.

Let me suggest this as well – you want to visit Switzerland – take a day or two in the Kiental area and stay with the Antulovich family at Haus Schönegg!  I promise if you want to decompress – well here is the place!

On this week’s journey throughout the Alps I decided to travel over to the French area of Switzerland and visit “Montreux on the Lake Geneva shoreline.” Hey, that’s a catchy line. Might be good for a top-ten song.

Come on guys – Deep Purple memorialized the 1971 fire that burned down the Montreux Casino. A fan set the Casino on fire and “burned it to the ground” when he/or she shot off a flare gun during a concert there. The late great Frank Zappa and the Mothers of Invention were playing at the time. Go ahead you “unhipsters“ – find the song by Deep Purple called “Smoke on the Water” and you will learn the story.

So off to Montreux I go.

Alright those of you who have been following my journeys through Switzerland know that whenever I make a trip to a place – Bern, Fribourg, Spietz, etc … it is raining by the time I get there. So, I have gotten smarter.

Pack a sweatshirt, rain gear, towel and even an extra pair of socks in my backpack before I leave. As I walked down Strattlighugel to the Gwatt Deltapark Bus stop the sun was shining and it looked like a promising day (but I kept thinking should I bring my umbrella – Nah!).

I jumped on the #1 bus … it slipped through the midmorning traffic and I was dropped off at the Thun Bahnhof for my two-hour train ride to Montreux. (By now you all should have some German vocabulary … Bahnhof = train station!)

The lyrics from “Smoke on the Water” kept spinning around in my head as we sped across the beautiful Swiss landscape. You all know what it is like when you get one of those soundtracks rolling around in your head. Now, imagine my case – not much in this old brain anyway – so several days later the song is still with me!

After a train change in Visp … we complete our second half of the journey. As we traveled into southwestern part of Switzerland (no it is not like Arizona in the US southwest)! It appeared to my inexperienced eye to be more agriculture in regards to orchards and vineyards. I actually don’t know this for a fact. But, it did look that way.

Obviously looking back from this direction the mountains look different as well. Still as stunning – but just not the same.

As you enter that final leg of the journey there are several smaller stations the train stops at. The last one before Montreux is in Aigle. After leaving there I thought I saw the famous island castle – Chateau de Chillon (If that’s not French – well, I don’t know what would be) sitting in the lake.

No problem, when I got to Montreux (the next stop) I’d find a way to get back there and see it. Oh yeah, by now it is raining – in fact been raining on and off for the last half hour of my ride. Well why wouldn’t it rain on the day that I explore my second homeland??

By the way the Chateau de Chillon is very famous and one of the most visited castles in Switzerland – and in all of Europe for that matter. There is some written evidence that it existed in 1005 – that’s a long time ago.

Built on an island in the lake it guards the entrance to Vaud River which connects to Germany, France and Italy. So, militarily it was advantageous, but also commercially it was as well since the location would allow the castle to charge a toll on passing ships. (Wikipedia can make you look smart.)

Sadly, I didn’t make it back to the castle on this trip. But, I will at some point.

We get to the train station (think Bahnhof). I jump off – no falling off this time! – head down a large stairway to the walkway along Lake Geneva. Some really unbelievable views out across the lakes at the surrounding Alps. Even with the rain and low hanging clouds it was really cool.

I explored this lower area around the lake for a long time. There is no doubt that the city is aching to get back to the world-famous Montreux Jazz Festival. They have posters, tributes and advertisements for it. I think it is usually happening in July … but I am not sure when. With Covid who knows if it will take off on a normal schedule.

Standing with your back to the lake and looking up at the city (25,000 or so people live here) the architecture is definitely not like the cities of Bern, Thun, Basel, Zurich … it is described as Bell Epoque. OK – I get it, that’s French – but have no idea what that means.

It is pretty in the rain and probably spectacular with the sun out.

Just in case you didn’t know … Lake Geneva is the border of France and Switzerland (yeah check your geology … or is it geography?) I can never remember – but you all have smart phones – do some work on your own. This area is known as being part of the “Swiss Riviera!”

Freddy Mercury (“Queen”) lived in Montreux for several years and the group recorded a lot of music here. There is a statue in his memory right on the lakefront – see the pics.

The famous composer Igor Stravinsky spent many years in Montreux and completed several of his great works here. There is also a sculpture of him along the lake as well.

And for one last time those lyrics from Deep Purple come back …. Maybe, just maybe they will go away. Well, hell I kind of like that song anyway.                                

We had a fun afternoon traveling to the beautiful Swiss town of Zweisimmen.   A fantastic ski area in the canton of Bern.  Our Thun Tiger offensive coordinator Chris had organized an arrangement with the community to conduct a football camp for the local children.

So, I hopped in the van with Chris and two of our U-19 players Angel and Joel.  They had already loaded up the gear we needed for our demonstration.   We began a picturesque drive through the beautiful countryside.

Despite the rainy weather (I think I have jinxed my second homeland – it has pretty much rained on and off every day since I arrived two months ago!) Honestly the beauty of this place will knock your socks off.  It’s like driving through a post card.

I do have to say – the rivers running into Lake Thun from the mountains are nearly overflowing due to the enormous amount of rain …  the entire river is rapids from the mountains to Lake Thun.  Looks really dangerous to be honest with you.

Well we got a break – the weather held off for most of the three-hour training session with the youngsters.  Two of our other U-19 players also joined us – as Shawn and Omar arrived right before we started.

What great young men we have in the Tigers organization.  Willing to give up their afternoon and battle what could have been a really rainy day.  But, luckily as I already mentioned – the rain fell on and off, but never really very hard.

By the way Chris is a doctor and a surgeon who specializes in hip replacements.  (I know he has been eyeing me up – but my hips are fine…some other parts not so much).  Naturally he is very organized and he really had everything worked out for our camp.

He and the four players did all the work!  I did my usual cheerleading.  Now, although I speak very few words of Swiss German and these youngsters pretty much speak no English.  We all had a great time!

I imagine the kids all went home and told their parents about some grey haired lunatic clapping, high fiving and blasting out a “Whhheeeeww! (Ala Worldwide Wrestling Federation’s Ric Flair!)

But, really a big thank you to Chris, the Tigers, and these fabulous young men who helped these youngsters appreciate the game of American Football!  Just another episode or (mis)adventure in my football wanderings!

Get the day started with some Swiss chocolate and a cup of tea.

Start down the hill from Strattlighugel 46 to lift some weights at the gym – “Self-Fitness.”  Well actually I am not sure I would consider it lifting weights anymore – more like exercising with weights now!

I get about a quarter of the way down and I realize that I don’t have my wallet.  Which means I don’t have my gym card … nor do I have any money to go to the grocery to get lunch … hmmm … beer as well.  Not so good

Oh, by the way did I mention it is raining.

After a little internal debate, I hang a U-Turn, walk back up the steeper part of my trip and return to Strattlighugel 46.  Unbolt the doors … find my wallet and reverse action again.

Yup, still raining!

Well, it was quiet at the gym, so was able to get through a good workout.  Whip across the street, pick up my beer (I mean groceries … well, they are technically groceries – right?)  Back up the damn hill through the rain.

OK enough of my complaining.

About a week ago I went back down into Thun to visit the Thun Castle (Schloss Thun) after some encouragement from my friend Nic.  He told me it is awesome to wander around up there and then get into the museum.

Well, although the museum was still closed due Covid restrictions … I guess there are no germs in restaurants – but they hang out in museums???  Hmmm …. Go figure.

But, the walk around the Schloss was really pretty cool.  Here are some shots of the place.  Oh yeah, the cannon.  Well come on it is a castle!

This week my journey in Switzerland took me to the nation’s largest city – Zurich.  The city itself is around 430,000 according to the 2018 census – but the entire surrounding area of Zurich is probably closer to 1.5 million or so.

Many non-residents may find that they are wrong in thinking that Zurich is the capital of Switzerland (Bern is the national capital).

The city is located on one end of Lake Zurich in the north central area of Switzerland.  It has a beautiful airport with some outstanding views of the Alps that is the busiest in the country.  The rail station is also the most active and Zurich is a natural hub of travel to and through my second homeland.

Now, this is an old place – it is over 2000 years old.  Settled in 15 BC by the Romans.  The architecture does reflect the age of the city and it is a blend of modern and old buildings – making it very interesting for the many visitors it entertains.

The river Limmat flows from Lake Zurich and the “Old Town” is built around either side of the river.  It makes for some really picturesque scenes.  Views of really old buildings, churches and clock towers built amongst restaurants and shops.

Obviously, everyone knows that Zurich is a big center for the financial sector of Europe – well for the world for that matter.  I mean we are all aware of those so called “numbered” Swiss bank accounts.  Those accounts no one can get to see.

Well, I think I still have some money in one of those accounts from one of my earlier visits.  No wonder the IRS is always holding up my tax returns!  Hopefully they never find those gold bars I buried in the yard.

With all of the visitors, the size of the city and also the international business done here there is definitely more “hustle and bustle.”  The city is busy and the pace is different than most other parts of the country.

I have been here several times and I am always amazed at the constant movement along the shopping district with some really pricy places.  The “Bahnhofstrasse” is a long stretch of shops and restaurants that can but a dent in your wallet.

As you come out of the massive Bahnhof – which has a really great shopping area as well. You step right onto the Bahnhofstrasse – and away you go … spending money to your heart’s content.  Better bring a lot of $$ when you slide on down that street.

Anyway, was a good trip and like everywhere else in Switzerland – the chocolate and beer (die schokolade und bier) – well pretty good here as well.

Made a trip to visit my friend Chris in Winterthur this week.  Chris is the defensive coordinator for the Warriors who play in that city.  We met several years ago at the Swiss National Football camp and have spent a lot of time talking football via emails, zoom and now we have a chance to see one another in person again.

“Winti” is located in the Northern part of the country and is a town of about 110,000 or so (That makes it the sixth largest city in the country).  Compared to a lot of Switzerland it is relatively flat – but there are a lot of parklike areas and Chris told me that the city likes to consider itself a very “green” city.

We wandered around the downtown area – and like Zurich there is definitely more hustling around.  There is a large shopping area as you leave the Bahnhof and head through the market place towards “Old Town”.

Like many other Swiss cities the “Old Town” area is made up of cobblestone streets with fountains and nicely situated restaurants where you can sit outside and eat or drink a beer (“Ich trinkt ein Beir.” – German for “I drink a beer” …  See I am learning a little of the language here and there – plus I think it was actually three beers!)

Which by the way we did.  We had a nice lunch coupled with a few beers as we did what we always do.  Talk about football and our respective teams.  We exchanged thoughts about where football is and where it is heading in Switzerland.

It was great to see Chris – now there are no professional football players or coaches in Europe.  Let me add an asterisk to that.  There are some “import” players and coaches.  The “imports” are compensated in the amount a football club can afford.

Like anywhere else some clubs have more sponsorship (think bigger cities) and therefore more money than others.  So, some clubs will get an “import” player or coach who is compensated.

The compensation is not going to make a player leave the NFL, or a coach from the US quit his job.

Most players are from Division II and III, or NAIA teams.  Yes, there are a few QB’s who were backups at bigger schools – but not so many.  Consequently, the players who are brought over to Europe are basically guys looking to continue on playing football because they like it.  (I will emphasize that this is certainly not a path to the NFL!)

Most of the hired coaches are either real young guys with little experience but have a lot of piss and vinegar and are full of energy.  Or they are like me – old and have a lot of experience (not all of it good!) and are willing to share it.

Europe is a great experience for players who want to keep playing and also enjoy learning a new culture.  The same for coaches.  It is certainly not for everyone.  But for guys like me it is an absolutely amazing experience.  Now – I have to admit I hit the jackpot when I was introduced to football in Switzerland.

A little about the salary structure.  Usually, coaches and players who are “imports” are the same in regards to pay.  Generally housing is guaranteed – it is sometimes a shared apartment or flat.  It is livable, but don’t confuse it with staying at the Plaza Hotel.

The financial commitment depends on the strength of the club – but anywhere from $2500 – $3500 before taxes.  Often one meal per day is included – but not always.  Depending on length of stay you will have insurance.

Also, many clubs will give you a European cell phone so you don’t go broke with your US plan.  Gym memberships are common as is transportation (often you are better off with a bicycle or an all-city or country public transportation pass than a car).

Oh, and don’t worry about a language barrier.  There is none – English is used pretty much everywhere.  (I cannot guarantee that about Japan where they have tremendous football – you have to talk to my friend Greg Gregory who is coaching there right now.)

Most European seasons are three or four months – so that is the extent of your commitment.  You will not get rich!  But, you will meet some truly amazing people.  Both on and off the field.  That I can guarantee you.  Then there is the ability to see so many things.  It truly is amazing.

So, anyway it is truly a great summer job for a player who wants to keep playing – or for a coach who fits a special niche.  I love it and have recommended it to many of my friends.  I also recommend it to players from a school like Moravian College (a Division III school in PA where I work) if they want to experience a great time before they enter their 40+ years of real world work that they will be facing!

Damn, how did I get so far off the track with my meandering around?

Back to Chris.  He is a truly gifted coach, and I can see that whenever we talk via zoom or finally more in person.  Chris is one reason why I have so much faith in the great leaps in improvement that football has made in Switzerland.

Yes, the players continue to improve – case in point players from our small city of Thun – the Harvey brothers are playing college football in the US – Johns Hopkins and Washington and Lee.  Danny Antolovich (all 6-7 and 300 pounds of him) is on a scholarship at UCONN.

There are players here!

But, there are coaches here as well.  They continue to get better – obviously this propels the athletes forward.  I am so impressed with the intensity and the seriousness of the coaches in Switzerland. (Our staff in Thun is one of the best in the country – I am sure of that).

I just love it!

OK – let me finish up with this.

Chris – in life away from football is an airline pilot!  Yup, he flies all over the place.  Now I ask myself (“Self”) would you rather roam around flying a jet or worry about stopping a particular team’s offense or defense?

I’m voting for “the friendly skies”

Anyway here are some shots of Winterthur!

Well as most know I have had some adventures here in the land of the Alps – and then I have had a few (mis)adventures – you know like falling off the train in Bern a month or so ago.

On Thursday I inadvertently added to the list of (mis)adventures on my trip to visit my friend Delmus in Luzern on.  It was an honest mistake that will be forever remembered as “The Tunnel to Nowhere” in his household.

It started off fine as I boarded the 8:35 train to Luzern at the Thun Bahnhof from Platz (Place) 3 outside the station.  No problems switching trains in Bern (Nope, did not fall off this time!) and climbing on for the last leg of the journey to the beautiful city of Luzern.

A note or two about Luzern.  First another beautiful Swiss city set alongside a lake and ringed by magnificent mountains.  It is a city of about 82,000 people in central Switzerland and located off the shores of Lake Lucerne.  The waters of the River Reuss leave the lake and flow through Luzern (also known as Lucerne by the way).

This picturesque area has several great landmarks like the Mounts Pilatus and Rigi (Swiss Alps) and the famous covered wooden Chapel Bridge (oldest covered bridge in Europe) which cuts across the Reuss at an angle.  Part of the bridge is the 115-foot tall Wasserturm or water tower.

The bridge was part of the city’s fortifications and was built in 1365 (Think – USA Declaration of Independence was in 1776 – unless we have cancelled that out).  This place is old folks!  In fact, this bridge – the Kapelibrucke) is the oldest truss bridge in the world.  Don’t ask me what a “truss” bridge is – I have no clue!

“Old Town” is nestled (how about “nestled” for a college word??) along the river and the restaurants there are a very good place to dine outdoors and visit with friends or have a coffee (well beer) and just observe the crowds wandering around.    The shops, towers, and architecture along the cobblestone streets are extremely attractive to the many tourists wandering through.

Honestly, Luzern is one of the most attractive places you can find anywhere in the world.

****Oh yeah back to my (mis)adventure or “The Tunnel to Nowhere” episode.****

I get off the train it Platz (Place) 3 and trail some fellow passengers to the exit way and down the ramp to meet my friend Delmus.  I get to the bottom of the ramp – hang a right back to where the Luzern train station is.  I get about 20 meters (I use meters become I am becoming Swiss).  Well there is a big bike storage area for thousands of bikes to my left and a cement wall right in front of me.

Not getting to the Bahnhof that way.  So, I reverse my direction and go back the way I came.  Continue past the ramp I came down and in another 25 meters find a stairway out.  Well, OK – Up I go and find myself on a busy street.  But, not in the train station.

Now folks I have been in the Luzern Bahnhof many times over the years.  It is a magnificent steel and glass building with several stores and shops located inside of it.  This busy strasse is not cutting it.  Get a message from Delmus … “Where the Hell are you … I am a gate 3 where are you?”

I call him and say I got off at gate three went down the ramp and outside standing on a street looking at the Lucerne college of Science or something like that..??  I tell him I will return to my starting point and try again.

Back down the steps … 25 meters later… up the ramp to the tracks.  Looks the same as when I got off the train.  Look around – see no other alternative.  Back to the ramp – well maybe I am missing something … turn right (again) go 20 meters seeing the bicycle storage and the same cement wall over again.  SHIT!  Turn around go all the way to the end and climb up the steps and am back out on the street.  SHIT!  (I guess I should say “Scheisse” since that is SHIT in German).

Now I am beginning to wonder if maybe I got off at the wrong stop and this might not ever be Luzern!  A minute or so after I get to the street again – Delmus texts me.  “Don’t move – I know where you are!”  A few minutes later I hear my name being called and here comes my friend walking up the sidewalk towards me.

He explains to me he realized what I had done.  Instead of going right when I got off the train I followed some people left to the ramp.  Unlike all the other ramps in the train stations that have two ways to go this one only had an exit.  So, there was no way I could get to the Bahnhof once I went down the ramp.

Delmus told me the same thing had happened to him and his family at some point when they had visited the city many years ago.  Therefore, he realized what I had done.  Another lesson learned on a (mis)adventure in Switzerland.

Anyway, this was a tremendous visit with Delmus and his wife Nadine and daughters Neomie and Louana (please excuse the spelling because it is probably wrong).  Also met Neomie’s significant other Phillip.  Plus – their two dogs and two kittens.

Nadine is the perfect hostess and they have a beautiful apartment.  Great evening of eating, drinking and talking with my friends.  We stayed up too late watching football highlight videos with Phil (who plays football here in Switzerland).

The dinner we had needs to addressed … we had Raclette.  An amazing Swiss dish where you heat cheese, scraping it off over potatoes and then placing any of the various toppings you cook at the same time.  Think onions, bacon, sausage, beef, peppers, veggies … hell anything you can think of you can make!

It was a wonderful meal with great conversation – renewed friendships and well it was just a great time.

Also, Delmus got out his rifle and pistol to show me.  Delmus was US military – married Nadine (a Swiss citizen) and now a dual citizen.  He was allowed to keep his weapons because almost every man in Switzerland is armed.  Switzerland is neutral, but all men pretty much serve in the Military for a year.  Then, when they are done with their requirement they leave the army.

But, when they do it is they must take their weapons home with them.  You might think that is  dangerous but Switzerland has almost no crime.  (Go ahead – look it up!??!)

Switzerland may be neutral but it is probably the most armed country in the world!

Anyway here is Luzern!

There are Cranes everywhere!

Other than myself, friend Bruce Altrichter and my late friends John Holland and our Muhlenberg College professor Dr. John Trainer few people know this.  There are only two Cranes native to the United States.

I mean birds guys … birds.  Yes, the Whooping Crane and the Sandhill Crane are the only Cranes here in North America!  Hey, I can’t make this stuff up.  It has to be true it is on Wikipedia.  Yeah how about this – the Whooping Crane is like the giraffe of birds (hmmm the giraffe of birds – maybe not the best analogy there.)  Well, OK it is the tallest bird in the US!

Actually, I feel privledged to have seen both kinds.  Believe it or not the Sandhill Crane will zip through Arizona (where I saw them) as they migrate.  Amazing!

Anyway, these are some big birds – very impressive when you see them.  Go on – look them up!

OK!  Back to my original statement – referring to Switzerland however.  There are Cranes everywhere.  But now I am referring to the Cranes used for construction.  Several years ago when I first came to Switzerland I noticed that they had these construction towers everywhere.  I am not kidding you – everywhere!

Most are orange – and yes, they are extremely tall.  They often come in pairs and trios and sometimes more! (Personally, I think they are pretty damn cool!) But literally you cannot go a few miles (sorry …  kilometers) without seeing one.

I must confess after talking to several other friends they are all over Europe.  You might say “commonplace.”  But think about the US – where do we see them?  (mostly in large cities that are building UPWARD!)

Trust me, not like this.  They are like rabbits  “(Crane Rabbits”) multiplying everywhere over here throughout the Alps.

But, OK let’s think about Switzerland for a minute.  It is mountain upon mountain – and not talking about those midgets like the Blue Mountains or Appalachians.  They are pretty big.  So, if you want to build a house or apartment you are pretty much on the side of a pretty steep incline.

What do you do – you bring in the Cranes … nope, not the Whooping of Sandhill type.  But, these guys!

Then you level everything of and drop in all the equipment needed, the cement, steel, pipes, windows, nuts and bolts and whatever else you need to create your project.  Simply amazing!  Honestly – amazing to see!

Take a look at a few of them …  I am not kidding you – this is a small collection that I have.  It has become an obsession of mine.  Call it “The Cranes of Switzerland!”

OK … so Reudi (my landlord – theoretically … well, we are pals – so actually we are friends – hard to consider him my landlord since he buys me beer!) grabbed me and asked me if I wanted to go on a tramp (walk) (hike) with our friend Ulrich through Faulensee on Friday!  Well why not!!??

Let’s go!!

****We have pretty much one day of nice weather paired with a day of rainy weather here in our part of Switzerland.  Well is that so terrible?  I have a day of wet beer balanced with a day of dry beer – how bad is that?****

Wake up Friday to a beautiful Swiss sunny day.  Reudi and I hop in his car and rip down the highway and through Spiez to Faulensee where Ulrich and his wife Edda live.  (Actually, looks like there are few restaurants in Spiez worth visiting!!?  We will see!)

Ulrich leads us on an hour walk (seemed like an hour and a half!) up and down the hills (mountains) around his town of Faulensee.  Then down around the beautiful views around the Thunersee.  Such a beautiful picture-perfect place.

Both Ulrich and Reudi are such brilliant guys – the lives they have lived.  Living all over the world and the people they have worked with and around.  Seriously it is fun just listening to them.

OK – Ulrich is good with English.  Reudi and I are like two old guys lost on a desert island trying to understand each other.  But, who cares we are buds!  We figure it out.

I actually looked at an apartment in this town because it is such a beautiful area.  There is no doubt I could live in Switzerland.  Such great people and well – it always looks like a post card.  I could live here easily.

Anyway – here are some shots of this picturesque little area near my hometown of Gwatt.